Here’s gorgeous Caroline. Lots of fun!

Make up and styling by Holly Corsano.

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The Value of a Make up Artist

A few people have asked me if they need to have a Make Up Artist (MUA for short) for their photo session. The answer is no, but it’s so strongly recommended that it’s almost a definite yes. Let me explain! :)

Model, Meredith, is getting airbrushed by make up artist, Holly Corsano.

Model, Meredith, is getting airbrushed by make up artist, Holly Corsano.

While most of us ladies are pretty capable of doing our own day or night make up, there is such a thing as flash/studio-appropriate make up (very similar to “stage make up”) that the average person knows very little or nothing about. That’s why we use MUAs whenever possible on our personal projects and strongly recommend one with clients.

A MUA will step in on set to do "touchups" as needed.

A MUA will step in on set to do "touchups" as needed.

Skin naturally has a sheen or a coat of natural oils which are created by our own cells to protect the surface of the skin. Even if you have dry skin and even if you can’t see it in person — it is certainly there and likes to show up ones the strobes go off flashin’. :) This sheen is the bane of professional photographers. And no, it cannot easily be “corrected in Photoshop.” A pimple or another form of skin imperfection can be Photoshoped but  shininess cannot. At least not with satisfactory results. Part of the reason for this is the fact that sheen is in essence exaggerated highlights. We don’t want to remove highlights because they are an important part of a 2-dimensional image that is supposed to portray a 3-dimensional reality. The play of highlights and shadows gives images dimension. The lack of one or the other (or both) creates the so called “flat” images. As you can see dealing with sheen is a little bit of a catch 22 –we don’t want to remove it and we certainly don’t want to dull it down, which also creates flatness, but we also can’t have it stay in as it’s distracting and makes people appear sweaty. The only way really to deal with sheen in a portrait photograph is to recreate skin — this is an advanced and expensive Photoshop technique and for the general portrait session, it just isn’t worth the time and money involved.

Hair also needs touchups in addition to the make up.

Hair also needs touchups in addition to the make up.

A MUA uses liquid and powder foundation specific to photoshoots that will eliminate this shininess. She/he will also accurately match your skin color — it is surprising but not all of us do a good job at matching our own skin color with our daily wear foundation. A MUA will also contour your face — using the principles of light a good make up artist will use highlights and shadows to enhance the structure of your face — narrow the bridge of the nose, exaggerate and heighten cheek bones, etc, etc.

A great looking image is the result of team work.

A great looking image is the result of team work.

Also, a make up artist working with us carries a lot more responsibilities after the initial make up is done. She or he remains on set to make sure that we have a good handle on flyaway hairs and sprays them down as needed and occasionally will step in to correct and adjust the make up or do “touch ups.” In essence, this important person is an additional set of eyes on set that are trained to look for the things that are not quite as perfect as they need to be for a great looking picture.

Here’s a mild to moderate case of a shiny forehead; the cheeks were even shinier here but I wanted to keep our model anonymous.  I was quite happy to discover it was hard to find a good example of a really shiny face –this  means we don’t have as many messups as I though we might! (juust kidding :) )

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An Oldie but Goodie

Still selecting frames for the showcase in NY.

Here’s a little gem I discovered in the archives. Did you see that only her lips are in focus, well I hope you all did anyway.

Eriko from Japan. The girl with the flawless skin.

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All about the EYES

Just selecting images for a female photographers showcase Ren and I are attending on Tuesday in NYC.  If you are around on the 27th, stop by and have a drink with us. The venue is Greenhouse.

Ren will be making a cameo appearance with this image. Funny fact –I have never received as many requests for the image to be used as a screensaver as I did for this one. Ha! Ren, any thoughts? ;)

So, let me just point out why I always demand that little something in the eyes. Case in point –well, this image!! Yes, the lines the body creates are great; yes, her make up looks good; yes, the styling is well put together and yes I am even willing to admit that the lashes look good ( Ren and I have a little disagreement over the perfect lash length but that’s a topic I will let her cover herself)…but, none of those things are what makes this image special. The eyes are!! Look at them! I rest my case.

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Fashion Inside

A relatively quick but very productive shoot inside. Model is the lovely Brynn. I knew I wanted to use the 125 mm lens, which in simple terms means the lens is a telephoto and a prime ( no zoom). I literally had  backed up all the way into the house plants lining the room in order to get my model in the frame.  Used a warming gel for the nice sun kissed healthy tan (Brynn’s complexion is actually quite fair)– very happy with the result!

Ren, carefully watching over us to the side, was on “claw hands” patrol. :) Make up and styling is also courtesy of her direction.

An overall excellent shoot.

brynn fashion white

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Behind the scenes shots seem to be a favorite, by popular demand here’s a few from a recent shoot we did with beautiful Brynn. Catching some of the last days of Indian Summer we went outside for a commercial/stock shoot we’d been planning for a while.

Here’s Ren doing some final touch ups on Brynn. Main make up was done inside, however we’ve found that it’s  always good to make final adjustments when the model is actually in the environment in terms of lighting.

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Aaaand our model is ready…btw, black and white is a killer combination ( meaning it really will drive you nuts to get right). Anyway, a word of wisdom –avoid the black/white combo when you are working on something that will be carefully scrutinized for technical quality. Whites get blown or blacks get clipped quite easily in these situations. Stick to neutral colors when you can.

brynn workout

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One tall dress

Just about finished on the studio shots from a shoot with did for a Connecticut-based designer, Nadia Holmes. Big thanks to our amazing models that day –Kristin, Sabrina and Alia and our MUA, Natasha Brown.

First,  please note that this blog will not be used for shameless plugs or product reviews, but I have to say this dress looks pretty awesome. I noticed it back while we were  shooting the collection and I think Kristin did it due justice here.

Kristin’s 5′7 …add the 3-inch heels and we’re at 5′10….she looks at least 6′0 to me in this picture, and any dress that can do that — I wanna have it! :D Take note ladies, you can make yourself look taller, you just have to find a way that works.  Dress tall, pose tall.

nadia-holmes-dress

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Behind the Scenes

Behind the scenes among a few favorite shoots this summer. Behind the scene shots can really show the environment of the set which often remains unseen in the final product and can be a real testament to the group effort and discipline that goes into making it all come together.

Michelle and Buyana making do with make up touch ups at a literally uneven plane on the edge of the pool. :)

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Brynn on the beach at 5 a.m. fending off a playful Golder Retriever — the hardships of modeling.

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Sometimes stylists get playful too and try to “steal the spotlight”…

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Working on catalog is no joke. Every wrinkle needs to be smoothed, every fold in the clothing needs to fall on the body just right. A lot of pinning and tucking is going on in the picture below for that one perfect catalog shot.

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More tucking and pinning…

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Make up, make up, make up. We are so grateful to all the talented Make up Artists that work so hard alongside us.

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Eirik for Abercrombie & Fitch

We just completed a quick impromptu shoot for Eirik after we were done shooting our commercial construction stock. Eirik will be entering a casting call for Abercrombie & Fitch with the pictures.  Ren, having spent years working for the company, helped immensely with the look and direction of the quick set. Wishing Eirik all the best and keeping our fingers crossed for him.

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